Exam 11: The Ocean Floor

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Which of the following is true regarding the gravitational forces affecting Earth?

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__________is an economically viable long- range solution to beach preservation only where there is dense development, large supplies of sand, low wave energy, and reconcilable environmental issues.

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__________is not a dynamic characteristic of a wave.

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____________are built more or less parallel to the beach.

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What facies of sand deposits typically display millimetre- scale beds with gentle seaward dips and parallel lamination defined by alternating layers of clean white quartz and darker heavy mineral concentrates?

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_________are generally built in pairs to preserve the location of a river mouth or harbour entrance.

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Which one of the following is not directly related to wave refraction?

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How great can the speed of tidal currents be, such as during spring tides off the coast of Brittany in France?

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Fetch refers to _______.

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A_______ migrates inland as a wave- cut platform is extended.

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A _________extends partway across the mouth of a bay or estuary.

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All waves represent_______ .

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A________ is an isolated remnant of bedrock standing above a wave- cut platform.

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What is the cause for the present day rise in sea level of 2.0- 2.5 mm/year?

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How can crashing, collapsing, storm waves generate explosive forces and stresses on rocky outcrops and manmade structures?

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The leeward side of a groin is _________.

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With respect to constructing seashore buildings or foreshore engineering works, the best advice should be: _________.

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How much pressure can be exerted by those "perfect waves" that characterize the North Atlantic winter storms?

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When does a deep- water wave change to a shallow water wave?

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What causes the pair of tidal bulges?

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