Exam 15: Oceans, Shorelines, and Shoreline Processes

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How do rip currents form,and what should you do if you are caught in one?

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Individual sand grains move along a beach:

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The highest part of a wave is known as its ____________________,and the lowest part is its ____________________.The wave ____________________ is the difference between these two points.

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A beach with a wide berm,a gentle slope,and a smooth offshore profile is a:

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Orbiting molecules of water in a wave touch the sea or lake floor at the depth of the ____________________.

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Why do waves bend or refract as they approach shorelines?

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Tidal ranges are lowest where the sea bottom slope is ____________________ in slope and the inlet is ____________________ in width,and are highest where the slope is ____________________ in slope and the inlet is ____________________ in width.

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What are the primary agents of sediment transport and deposition along shorelines?

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In the open ocean salinity ranges from 32 to 37%.

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What path do water particles in a wave ideally follow?

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What characteristics along a seacoast indicate that erosion predominates over deposition?

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By definition,beaches are composed of sand.

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A wave-built platform is one in which sediment eroded from sea cliffs is transported seaward until it is deposited at the edge of the wave-built platform.

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Describe the way a wave moves and what wave speed measures.

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How does the budget or volume of sand on a given beach change through the year?

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The two important types of nearshore currents are ____________________ currents and ____________________ currents.

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The distance wave-producing winds blow over a continuous body of water is the:

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Nearly all beach sand is quartz.

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Spring tides are tides:

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A beach with a small berm,coarser sediment,and offshore sand bars is a:

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