Question 1

Water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  diffraction 
B)  refraction 
C)  reflection 
D)  All of these are correct. 
E)  None of these is correct. 
A)  diffraction 
B)  refraction 
C)  reflection 
D)  All of these are correct. 
E)  None of these is correct.

Question 2

The orbital motion of a deep-water wave extends to a depth equal to ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  twice the wavelength 
B)  the wave's height 
C)  one-half the wavelength 
D)  one-half the wave's height 
E)  the seafloor depth 
A)  twice the wavelength 
B)  the wave's height 
C)  one-half the wavelength 
D)  one-half the wave's height 
E)  the seafloor depth

Question 3

The speed of a shallow-water wave at a depth of 5 m is ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  0.2 m/s 
B)  0.4 m/s 
C)  0.5 m/s 
D)  7 m/s 
E)  7.8 m/s 
A)  0.2 m/s 
B)  0.4 m/s 
C)  0.5 m/s 
D)  7 m/s 
E)  7.8 m/s

Question 4

The diameter of wave orbitals increases with increasing depth.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 5

Waves that travel through each other tend to cancel each other out and cease to exist on the far side of the passing zone.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 6

There is no vertical motion at the antinode of a standing wave.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 7

A wave breaks when ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  h/L = 1/7 
B)  L/h = 1/7 
C)  h = 3 m 
D)  L = 3 m 
E)  L/h = 3/7 
A)  h/L = 1/7 
B)  L/h = 1/7 
C)  h = 3 m 
D)  L = 3 m 
E)  L/h = 3/7

Question 8

Storm waves in the open sea are likely to be less steep and break less often than waves in the surf zone.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 9

A long wave with a period of about 15 minutes will travel across the oceans at a speed of approximately ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  2 m/sec 
B)  20 m/sec 
C)  200 m/sec 
D)  2 km/sec 
E)  20 km/sec 
A)  2 m/sec 
B)  20 m/sec 
C)  200 m/sec 
D)  2 km/sec 
E)  20 km/sec

Question 10

When the water depth is between L/2 and L/20, the wave speed is constant.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 11

The amplitude of a wave is about ________ the wave height.

Accepted Answer

A)  one-fourth 
B)  one-half 
C)  the same as 
D)  twice 
E)  four times 
A)  one-fourth 
B)  one-half 
C)  the same as 
D)  twice 
E)  four times

Question 12

The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  steepness 
B)  height 
C)  length 
D)  period 
E)  speed 
A)  steepness 
B)  height 
C)  length 
D)  period 
E)  speed

Question 13

A water wave reaches an unstable breaking point when the steepness ratio, H/L, reaches ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  1:10 
B)  1:8 
C)  1:7 
D)  1:5 
E)  1:2 
A)  1:10 
B)  1:8 
C)  1:7 
D)  1:5 
E)  1:2

Question 14

Water particles in deep-water waves move in ________ orbits.

Accepted Answer

The answer of Water particles in deep-water waves move in...

Question 15

Shallow-water waves will change direction as they approach shore in a process called ________.

Accepted Answer

The answer of Shallow-water waves will change direction as they...

Question 16

In a closed basin, a single-node standing wave oscillation tends to have a wavelength that is ________ the basin length.

Accepted Answer

A)  one-quarter 
B)  one-half 
C)  the same as 
D)  twice 
E)  four times 
A)  one-quarter 
B)  one-half 
C)  the same as 
D)  twice 
E)  four times

Question 17

The equation C = gT/2л is appropriate to determine the speed of a deep-water wave.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 18

Wave refraction results in ________.

Accepted Answer

A)  wave energy concentrating in bays 
B)  wave energy decreasing in bays 
C)  wave energy focusing on headlands 
D)  wave energy concentrating in bays and wave energy focusing on headlands 
E)  wave energy decreasing in bays and wave energy focusing on headlands 
A)  wave energy concentrating in bays 
B)  wave energy decreasing in bays 
C)  wave energy focusing on headlands 
D)  wave energy concentrating in bays and wave energy focusing on headlands 
E)  wave energy decreasing in bays and wave energy focusing on headlands

Question 19

A shallow-water wave has an L of 7 m. At which one of the following heights would it break?

Accepted Answer

A)  0.1 m 
B)  0.4 m 
C)  0.7 m 
D)  0.9 m 
E)  1.1 m 
A)  0.1 m 
B)  0.4 m 
C)  0.7 m 
D)  0.9 m 
E)  1.1 m

Question 20

Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave ________.

The orbital motion of a deep-water wave extends to a depth equal to ________.

The speed of a shallow-water wave at a depth of 5 m is ________.

The diameter of wave orbitals increases with increasing depth.

Waves that travel through each other tend to cancel each other out and cease to exist on the far side of the passing zone.

There is no vertical motion at the antinode of a standing wave.

A wave breaks when ________.

Storm waves in the open sea are likely to be less steep and break less often than waves in the surf zone.

A long wave with a period of about 15 minutes will travel across the oceans at a speed of approximately ________.

When the water depth is between L/2 and L/20, the wave speed is constant.

The amplitude of a wave is about ________ the wave height.

The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave ________.

A water wave reaches an unstable breaking point when the steepness ratio, H/L, reaches ________.

Water particles in deep-water waves move in ________ orbits.

Shallow-water waves will change direction as they approach shore in a process called ________.

In a closed basin, a single-node standing wave oscillation tends to have a wavelength that is ________ the basin length.

The equation C = gT/2л is appropriate to determine the speed of a deep-water wave.

Wave refraction results in ________.

A shallow-water wave has an L of 7 m. At which one of the following heights would it break?

Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves.

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Exam 8: The Waves

Water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave ________.

The orbital motion of a deep-water wave extends to a depth equal to ________.

The speed of a shallow-water wave at a depth of 5 m is ________.

The diameter of wave orbitals increases with increasing depth.

Waves that travel through each other tend to cancel each other out and cease to exist on the far side of the passing zone.

There is no vertical motion at the antinode of a standing wave.

A wave breaks when ________.

Storm waves in the open sea are likely to be less steep and break less often than waves in the surf zone.

A long wave with a period of about 15 minutes will travel across the oceans at a speed of approximately ________.

When the water depth is between L/2 and L/20, the wave speed is constant.

The amplitude of a wave is about ________ the wave height.

The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave ________.

A water wave reaches an unstable breaking point when the steepness ratio, H/L, reaches ________.

Water particles in deep-water waves move in ________ orbits.

Shallow-water waves will change direction as they approach shore in a process called ________.

In a closed basin, a single-node standing wave oscillation tends to have a wavelength that is ________ the basin length.

The equation C = gT/2л is appropriate to determine the speed of a deep-water wave.

Wave refraction results in ________.

A shallow-water wave has an L of 7 m. At which one of the following heights would it break?

Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves.

The Water Planet

Earth Structure and Plate Tectonics

The Sea Floor and Its Sediments

The Physical Properties of Water

The Chemistry of Seawater

The Atmosphere and the Oceans

Ocean Structure and Circulation

The Tides

Coasts, Beaches, and Estuaries

The Living Ocean

The Plankton, Productivity, and Food Webs

The Nekton: Swimmers of the Sea

The Benthos: Living on the Sea Floor

Environmental Issues

The Oceans and Climate Disruption

Filters