Exam 8: The Waves

If a surface water wave has a wavelength of 200 m and a 5-second period, its speed is ________.

A wave period that is representative of a tsunami wave is ________.

Waves that form beneath the surface on the pycnocline are called ________ waves.

When waves arrive at monitoring stations set up long distances from a storm center, which waves arrive first?

When deep-water waves travel away from a storm, the longer waves move faster than the shorter waves. This process is called sorting, or ________.

The wave frequency is the time it takes for two subsequent wave crests to pass a location.

Internal waves are always standing waves.

Wind waves in the open sea have wavelengths and speeds that are defined by the wave period.

If a wave is a capillary wave, the force that causes the water to return to its undisturbed level is ________.

The restoring force for ________ waves is surface tension.

Swell is more regular than waves in the wind-generated area because ________.

The average energy of a wave is determined by the wave's ________.

On a standing wave, the maximum vertical movement occurs at the node.

The speed of a shallow water wave changes with depth, but the length of a wave does not change.

Waves occurring at the interface between layers of seawater and fresh water are called ________.

The speed of a shallow water wave is computed using ________.

Water particles in shallow-water waves move in ________ orbits.

A tsunami, or seismic sea wave, travels at a speed determined by the size of the earthquake that forms it.

A small island in the open ocean is receiving swell coming from the southeast. Yet, waves break all around its shores, not just the ones facing southeast. The process responsible for this phenomenon is ________.

Water transported shoreward in the surf zone is returned seaward by ________.