Exam 8: The Waves

Two different wave groups with the same height travel together in the same direction. The wavelength of one group is twice as long as the wavelength of the other group. A combined wave of extra height will be produced

Typical wavelength of a tsunami is

The wave frequency is the time it takes for two subsequent wave crests to pass a location.

Waves moving against a current will

Water particles in shallow-water waves move in ________ orbits.

Internal waves are faster and have shorter periods than most wind waves.

Internal waves are always standing waves.

When water depth is between L/2 and L/20, the wave speed is constant.

Wind waves in the open sea have wavelengths and speeds that are defined by the wave period.

Wave refraction results in

The speed of a shallow water wave changes with depth, but the length of a wave does not change.

Water transported shoreward in the surf zone is returned seaward by

There are three antinodes in a double node standing wave.

There is no vertical motion at the antinode of a standing wave.

Because of dispersion the distribution of waves from a single storm changes with time and distance from the storm center.

The average energy of a wave is related to the square of its

The average energy of a wave is determined by the wave's

Swell is more regular than waves in the wind-generated area because

The restoring force of a capillary wave is gravity.

Waves that form beneath the surface on the pycnocline are called ________ waves.