Exam 8: The Waves

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Water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave

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A

Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves.

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False

Water particle orbits of shallow water waves change only their vertical dimension with depth.

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True

The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave

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On a standing wave, maximum vertical movement occurs at the node.

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The refraction of waves tends to concentrate wave energy ______ and disperse energy _____.

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A wave with a height of 4ft will have _______ as much energy as a 2ft wave.

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The orbital motion of a deep water wave extends to a depth equal to

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Water particles in deep-water waves move in ________ orbits.

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Waves occurring at the interface between layers of seawater and fresh water are called

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If a wave is a capillary wave, the force that causes the water to return to its undisturbed level is

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When waves arrive at monitoring stations set up long distances from a storm center, which waves arrive first?

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Shallow-water waves will change direction as they approach shore in a process called ________.

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A group of waves is propagated at a speed that is _______ the speed of the individual waves in deep water.

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Constructive interference between waves increases the height of the resulting wave.

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When deep-water waves travel away from a storm, the longer waves move faster than the shorter waves.  This process is called sorting, or ________.

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A long wave with a period of about fifteen minutes will travel across the oceans at a speed of approximately

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Wave height of wind waves depends on

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The equation C = gT/2n; is appropriate to determine the speed of a deep water wave.

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The amplitude of a wave is about _____ the wave height.

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