Exam 20: Waves,Beaches and Coasts

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Stacks are erosional remnants of headlands left behind as the coast retreats.

(True/False)
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Waves arriving at an angle to the shore push water parallel to the shore in a ______.

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A fiord is a glacially-cut valley flooded by rising sea level.

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Drowned coasts may be marked by ___,glacially cut valleys flooded by rising sea level.

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The bending of waves as they enter shallow water is called _____.

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______ are narrow currents that flow straight out to sea in the surf zone.

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The sea level rise in the past 15,000 years is due to ____.

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Waves break because:

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Seawalls are constructed perpendicular to the shore to prevent wave erosion.

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A tombolo is a bar of sediment connecting a former island to the mainland.

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During what season can you find the best beaches?

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Wavelength is the horizontal distance between two wave crests or two troughs.

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A ___ encompasses all land near the sea,including the beach and a strip of land inland from it.

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A wave begins to "feel the bottom" at a water depth equal to ____.

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Vast amounts of sand are moved by ____.

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Longshore currents transport most of the beach sand parallel to the shoreline.

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The height and length of a wave is a function of _____.

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Water in _____ has lost its orbital motion and moves back and forth.

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_____ is the movement of sand parallel to the shore.

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You can get out of a rip current easily by swimming ____ to the beach instead of struggling against the current.

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