Exam 20: Waves,Beaches and Coasts

The steepest part of a beach is the ____.

More sand is moved along the beach face than in the surf zone.

_____ carry fine-grained sediments out of the surf zone into deeper water.

Sediment may build up off a point of land to form a ____.

U.S.coasts with gently sloping plains,such as those along the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico,are ____.

Waves usually come straight into shore.

For the past 3000 years sea level has been rising at a rate of _______.

Tidal deltas are usually associated with _________.

Estuaries,such as Chesapeake Bay,are drowned glacial-cut valleys.

Some _____ beaches are made up of sand-sized particles of basalt.

Jetties and groins work because they enhance the flow of sand along a beach.

The vertical distance between the crest and the trough of a wave is called the ____.

The highest wind wave ever measured was 34 meters high.

Gravel beaches are found on coasts with low wave energy.

____ coasts are common because sea level has been rising for the past 15,000 years.

Wave orbits decrease in size with depth,and motion is essentially gone at a depth of _____

The upper part of a beach landward of the high tide line is the _____.

A _____ is a bar of sediment that connects a former island to the mainland.

Barrier islands are associated with an erosional coastline.

_____ are wave cut platforms formed by erosion of rock associated with cliff retreat.