Question 1

Why are ocean waves generally larger than those on lakes?

Accepted Answer

A) The wind direction varies less over lakes. 
B) Winds are always stronger over the ocean. 
C) Fetch is much longer in the ocean. 
D) Ships generating the waves are bigger in the ocean than on lakes. 
E) Tsunamis are generated in oceans but not in lakes. 
A) The wind direction varies less over lakes. 
B) Winds are always stronger over the ocean. 
C) Fetch is much longer in the ocean. 
D) Ships generating the waves are bigger in the ocean than on lakes. 
E) Tsunamis are generated in oceans but not in lakes.

Question 2

Which piece of evidence does NOT indicate that a barrier island has migrated landward?

Accepted Answer

A) A lighthouse that was built onshore is now well offshore. 
B) Oyster shells that grew in the sheltered lagoon behind the barrier island are now found on the front beach. 
C) Stumps of trees that grew along the lagoon are now found on the front beach. 
D) Barrier island beaches are now more easily eroded than they were one hundred years ago. 
E) Fine-grained lagoon sediments are layered beneath the sands of the barrier island. 
A) A lighthouse that was built onshore is now well offshore. 
B) Oyster shells that grew in the sheltered lagoon behind the barrier island are now found on the front beach. 
C) Stumps of trees that grew along the lagoon are now found on the front beach. 
D) Barrier island beaches are now more easily eroded than they were one hundred years ago. 
E) Fine-grained lagoon sediments are layered beneath the sands of the barrier island.

Question 3

Shallower water, smaller waves, and coarser grains promote more gentle slopes offshore.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 4

In areas prone to beach erosion, buildings are commonly elevated 4 m above the beach on _______________.

Accepted Answer

The answer of In areas prone to beach erosion, buildings...

Question 5

Which is NOT a factor that contributes to wave energy?

Accepted Answer

A) wave height 
B) wavelength 
C) density of water 
D) mass of moving water 
E) angle of approach of the wave to the beach 
A) wave height 
B) wavelength 
C) density of water 
D) mass of moving water 
E) angle of approach of the wave to the beach

Question 6

Which factor promotes a steeper slope on the active underwater part of the beach?

Accepted Answer

A) deeper water 
B) shallower water 
C) larger waves 
D) finer grains 
E) higher than average winds 
A) deeper water 
B) shallower water 
C) larger waves 
D) finer grains 
E) higher than average winds

Question 7

To be effective, beach replenishment sand should be dumped into the ocean as well as on the beach.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 8

Waves approaching shore at an angle create a(n) _______________ drift that essentially pushes a river of sand along the shore near the beach.

Accepted Answer

The answer of Waves approaching shore at an angle create...

Question 9

Why do waves not break in the open ocean?

Accepted Answer

A) Onshore winds drawn by rising warm air over land pull the tops of the waves to break. 
B) Water in deep-water waves does not move forward with the wave; it moves in a circular motion. 
C) Water in deep-water waves moves too fast to allow the wave to break. 
D) Water in deep-water waves moves only up and down; it switches to forward and back in shallow water. 
E) Waves only break in the deep ocean during tropical storms. 
A) Onshore winds drawn by rising warm air over land pull the tops of the waves to break. 
B) Water in deep-water waves does not move forward with the wave; it moves in a circular motion. 
C) Water in deep-water waves moves too fast to allow the wave to break. 
D) Water in deep-water waves moves only up and down; it switches to forward and back in shallow water. 
E) Waves only break in the deep ocean during tropical storms.

Question 10

What is NOT a viable long-term solution to reducing the effects of beach erosion?

Accepted Answer

A) Learn to live with actively eroding beaches, rather than fighting natural processes. 
B) Move buildings and roads back from the beach after storms. 
C) Remove old dams on rivers feeding sand to the beach. 
D) Stabilize sea cliffs, so they don't collapse onto beaches. 
E) Move cliff-top houses back from the cliffs to let cliffs erode. 
A) Learn to live with actively eroding beaches, rather than fighting natural processes. 
B) Move buildings and roads back from the beach after storms. 
C) Remove old dams on rivers feeding sand to the beach. 
D) Stabilize sea cliffs, so they don't collapse onto beaches. 
E) Move cliff-top houses back from the cliffs to let cliffs erode.

Question 11

What is the path of waves in a storm?

Accepted Answer

A) Waves move inward toward the storm center. 
B) Waves move outward from the storm center. 
C) Waves move in a circular path around the storm center. 
D) Waves take random paths as a storm moves through. 
E) Waves move forward and back under the storm center. 
A) Waves move inward toward the storm center. 
B) Waves move outward from the storm center. 
C) Waves move in a circular path around the storm center. 
D) Waves take random paths as a storm moves through. 
E) Waves move forward and back under the storm center.

Question 12

Waves are said to "feel bottom" when the water depth is less than approximately half the _______________.

Accepted Answer

The answer of Waves are said to "feel bottom" when...

Question 13

Why are inlets through barrier bars or barrier islands not closed by longshore drift of sand?

Accepted Answer

A) Such inlets are always the outlets for onshore rivers to reach the sea, so they flush the sand out. 
B) Rapid flow of water back and forth through the inlet as tides rise and fall keeps it clear. 
C) Longshore sand drifted into such inlets drops into deeper water, so it drifts out to sea. 
D) Sand drifted into such inlets encounters brackish water from the inlet and dissolves. 
E) Sand drifted into such inlets is carried into the lagoon by incoming waves. 
A) Such inlets are always the outlets for onshore rivers to reach the sea, so they flush the sand out. 
B) Rapid flow of water back and forth through the inlet as tides rise and fall keeps it clear. 
C) Longshore sand drifted into such inlets drops into deeper water, so it drifts out to sea. 
D) Sand drifted into such inlets encounters brackish water from the inlet and dissolves. 
E) Sand drifted into such inlets is carried into the lagoon by incoming waves.

Question 14

The slope of a beach is called its _______________.

Accepted Answer

The answer of The slope of a beach is called...

Question 15

Dumping fill material over an eroding bluff is not an effective way to slow erosion along cliff-bound coasts.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 16

What is NOT a process that removes sand from the coast?

Accepted Answer

A) Wind blows sand inland to form dunes. 
B) Rocks are pulverized into sand. 
C) Hurricanes and other large storms carry sand offshore. 
D) Rip currents carry sand into deeper water. 
E) Sand is pulverized into finer grains and washed out with the surf. 
A) Wind blows sand inland to form dunes. 
B) Rocks are pulverized into sand. 
C) Hurricanes and other large storms carry sand offshore. 
D) Rip currents carry sand into deeper water. 
E) Sand is pulverized into finer grains and washed out with the surf.

Question 17

As waves pile up water onshore, the water may stream back offshore to create a(n) _______________.

Accepted Answer

The answer of As waves pile up water onshore, the...

Question 18

What is beach hardening? What are three examples of techniques used in beach hardening? Why are these not good solutions to preventing erosion of sand on beaches?

Accepted Answer

To prevent erosion, individuals build st

Question 19

The equilibrium profile of a beach is linked to water depth and _______________.

Accepted Answer

The answer of The equilibrium profile of a beach is...

Question 20

Structures on a beach affect the location and formation of sand dunes.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Why are ocean waves generally larger than those on lakes?

Which piece of evidence does NOT indicate that a barrier island has migrated landward?

Shallower water, smaller waves, and coarser grains promote more gentle slopes offshore.

In areas prone to beach erosion, buildings are commonly elevated 4 m above the beach on _______________.

Which is NOT a factor that contributes to wave energy?

Which factor promotes a steeper slope on the active underwater part of the beach?

To be effective, beach replenishment sand should be dumped into the ocean as well as on the beach.

Waves approaching shore at an angle create a(n) _______________ drift that essentially pushes a river of sand along the shore near the beach.

Why do waves not break in the open ocean?

What is NOT a viable long-term solution to reducing the effects of beach erosion?

What is the path of waves in a storm?

Waves are said to "feel bottom" when the water depth is less than approximately half the _______________.

Why are inlets through barrier bars or barrier islands not closed by longshore drift of sand?

The slope of a beach is called its _______________.

Dumping fill material over an eroding bluff is not an effective way to slow erosion along cliff-bound coasts.

What is NOT a process that removes sand from the coast?

As waves pile up water onshore, the water may stream back offshore to create a(n) _______________.

What is beach hardening? What are three examples of techniques used in beach hardening? Why are these not good solutions to preventing erosion of sand on beaches?

The equilibrium profile of a beach is linked to water depth and _______________.

Structures on a beach affect the location and formation of sand dunes.

Natural Hazards and Disasters

Plate Tectonics and Physical Hazards

Earthquakes and Their Causes

Earthquake Predictions Forecasts and Mitigation

Tsunami

Volcanoes Tectonic Environments and Eruptions

Volcanoes Hazards and Mitigation

Landslides and Other Downslope Movements

Sinkholes Land Subsidence and Swelling Soils

Weather Thunderstorms and Tornadoes

Climate Change Processes and History

Climate Change Impacts and Mitigation

Streams and Flood Processes

Floods and Human Interactions

Hurricanes and nor Easters

Wildfires

Asteroid and Comet Impacts

Filters

Exam 15: Waves Beaches and Coastal Erosion

Why are ocean waves generally larger than those on lakes?

Which piece of evidence does NOT indicate that a barrier island has migrated landward?

Shallower water, smaller waves, and coarser grains promote more gentle slopes offshore.

In areas prone to beach erosion, buildings are commonly elevated 4 m above the beach on _______________.

Which is NOT a factor that contributes to wave energy?

Which factor promotes a steeper slope on the active underwater part of the beach?

To be effective, beach replenishment sand should be dumped into the ocean as well as on the beach.

Waves approaching shore at an angle create a(n) _______________ drift that essentially pushes a river of sand along the shore near the beach.

Why do waves not break in the open ocean?

What is NOT a viable long-term solution to reducing the effects of beach erosion?

What is the path of waves in a storm?

Waves are said to "feel bottom" when the water depth is less than approximately half the _______________.

Why are inlets through barrier bars or barrier islands not closed by longshore drift of sand?

The slope of a beach is called its _______________.

Dumping fill material over an eroding bluff is not an effective way to slow erosion along cliff-bound coasts.

What is NOT a process that removes sand from the coast?

As waves pile up water onshore, the water may stream back offshore to create a(n) _______________.

What is beach hardening? What are three examples of techniques used in beach hardening? Why are these not good solutions to preventing erosion of sand on beaches?

The equilibrium profile of a beach is linked to water depth and _______________.

Structures on a beach affect the location and formation of sand dunes.

Natural Hazards and Disasters

Plate Tectonics and Physical Hazards

Earthquakes and Their Causes

Earthquake Predictions Forecasts and Mitigation

Tsunami

Volcanoes Tectonic Environments and Eruptions

Volcanoes Hazards and Mitigation

Landslides and Other Downslope Movements

Sinkholes Land Subsidence and Swelling Soils

Weather Thunderstorms and Tornadoes

Climate Change Processes and History

Climate Change Impacts and Mitigation

Streams and Flood Processes

Floods and Human Interactions

Hurricanes and nor Easters

Wildfires

Asteroid and Comet Impacts

Filters