Exam 14: Waves, Beaches, and Coasts

_______ are sometimes built perpendicular to shore in an attempt to protect beaches that are losing sand from longshore drift.

A baymouth bar is a ridge of sediment that cuts a bay off from the open ocean.

Ordinary ocean waves are created by the interaction of the ____ and ____.

Some _____ beaches are made up of sand-sized particles of basalt.

The bending of waves as they enter shallow water is called _____.

Gravel beaches are found on coasts with low wave energy.

Wave orbits decrease in size with depth, and motion is essentially gone at a depth of _____

The energy that moves sand along a beach ultimately comes from ____.

______ are narrow currents that flow straight out to sea in the surf zone.

Vast amounts of sand are moved by ____.

Waves usually come straight into shore.

A fiord is a glacially-cut valley flooded by rising sea level.

During what season can you find the best beaches?

Jetties and groins work because they enhance the flow of sand along a beach.

_____ is the movement of sand parallel to the shore.

____ are rock walls designed to protect the entrance of a harbor from sediment deposition and storm waves.

_____ carry fine-grained sediments out of the surf zone into deeper water.

The highest wind wave ever measured was 34 meters high.

A wave begins to "feel the bottom" at a water depth equal to ____.

Stacks are erosional remnants of headlands left behind as the coast retreats.