Question 1

When waves approach the shore, a series of changes takes place. One change is that the:

Accepted Answer

A)  wave crest forms a steep peak. 
B)  wavelength increases. 
C)  wave height decreases. 
D)  wave velocity increases. 
A)  wave crest forms a steep peak. 
B)  wavelength increases. 
C)  wave height decreases. 
D)  wave velocity increases. A

Question 2

The period of wind waves is usually expressed in:

Accepted Answer

A)  feet or meters. 
B)  miles per hour, or kilometers per hour. 
C)  seconds. 
D)  feet or meters per hour. 
A)  feet or meters. 
B)  miles per hour, or kilometers per hour. 
C)  seconds. 
D)  feet or meters per hour. C

Question 3

In the open sea, tsunami:

Accepted Answer

A)  are giant breaking waves that are dangerous to ships. 
B)  are slow-moving waves, slower than the swell. 
C)  are long-period waves, often of 5-20 minutes. 
D)  have short wavelengths of 100-200 feet, similar to wind waves. 
A)  are giant breaking waves that are dangerous to ships. 
B)  are slow-moving waves, slower than the swell. 
C)  are long-period waves, often of 5-20 minutes. 
D)  have short wavelengths of 100-200 feet, similar to wind waves. C

Question 4

The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without change in direction is the:

Accepted Answer

A)  fetch. 
B)  wavelength. 
C)  wind length. 
D)  wind cell. 
A)  fetch. 
B)  wavelength. 
C)  wind length. 
D)  wind cell.

Question 5

Swell is the result of wave separation or dispersion.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 6

As the wind velocity increases during a storm:

Accepted Answer

A)  the wave height increases. 
B)  the wave velocity decreases. 
C)  the wind tends to flatten the ocean surface. 
D)  mass transport decreases in the open ocean. 
A)  the wave height increases. 
B)  the wave velocity decreases. 
C)  the wind tends to flatten the ocean surface. 
D)  mass transport decreases in the open ocean.

Question 7

Internal waves commonly form at the base of the pycnocline.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 8

Describe how a tsunami is formed and how it can travel great distances at great speeds.

Accepted Answer

A tsunami is a shallow-water wave that o

Question 9

Wave reflection causes interference in the form of vertical oscillations that are called standing waves.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 10

In shallow water, the motion of water particles:

Accepted Answer

A)  ceases completely. 
B)  forms large circular orbits. 
C)  becomes a back-and-forth motion near the bottom. 
D)  becomes an up-and-down motion near the bottom. 
A)  ceases completely. 
B)  forms large circular orbits. 
C)  becomes a back-and-forth motion near the bottom. 
D)  becomes an up-and-down motion near the bottom.

Question 11

In the open sea, tsunami reach an average wave height of about:

Accepted Answer

A)  1 meter. 
B)  10 meters. 
C)  100 meters. 
D)  1,000 meters. 
A)  1 meter. 
B)  10 meters. 
C)  100 meters. 
D)  1,000 meters.

Question 12

What is a storm surge and how does it differ from a breaking wind wave?

Accepted Answer

A storm surge is an abrupt bulge of wate

Question 13

When a tsunami reaches shore,

Accepted Answer

A)  the wave height is increased by entry into shallow water. 
B)  it always arrives at the time of a high tide. 
C)  the wave will appear as a single huge breaking wave. 
D)  it will always race hundreds of meters inland. 
A)  the wave height is increased by entry into shallow water. 
B)  it always arrives at the time of a high tide. 
C)  the wave will appear as a single huge breaking wave. 
D)  it will always race hundreds of meters inland.

Question 14

Rogue waves are best described as:

Accepted Answer

A)  the highest waves of a tsunami. 
B)  a breaking internal wave. 
C)  a strong rocking motion within a harbor. 
D)  a single massive wave that develops in the open ocean. 
A)  the highest waves of a tsunami. 
B)  a breaking internal wave. 
C)  a strong rocking motion within a harbor. 
D)  a single massive wave that develops in the open ocean.

Question 15

The Ramapo wave is unique because:

Accepted Answer

A)  many lives were lost when it struck the shore. 
B)  it is the largest wave ever observed by people. 
C)  it is the largest wave accurately measured by direct observation. 
D)  it was captured alive and brought to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in 1933 where it is presently on display. Tickets are hard to obtain. 
A)  many lives were lost when it struck the shore. 
B)  it is the largest wave ever observed by people. 
C)  it is the largest wave accurately measured by direct observation. 
D)  it was captured alive and brought to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in 1933 where it is presently on display. Tickets are hard to obtain.

Question 16

The first waves to form on the ocean surface when the wind starts to blow are:

Accepted Answer

A)  gravity waves. 
B)  internal waves. 
C)  swell. 
D)  capillary waves. 
A)  gravity waves. 
B)  internal waves. 
C)  swell. 
D)  capillary waves.

Question 17

The best place to study the effects of a seiche is:

Accepted Answer

A)  on a shallow beach at the edge of the Pacific. 
B)  in a harbor or lake. 
C)  near tropical islands in the Pacific or Atlantic. 
D)  in the open sea. 
A)  on a shallow beach at the edge of the Pacific. 
B)  in a harbor or lake. 
C)  near tropical islands in the Pacific or Atlantic. 
D)  in the open sea.

Question 18

A wave first begins to break against the shore when the ratio of wave height to water depth is about 3:4.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 19

What is the relationship between the wave crest, trough, height and wavelength?

Accepted Answer

Ocean waves have very specific structure

Question 20

As wind waves move out of a storm area:

Accepted Answer

A)  the short waves move out first and form "chop." 
B)  the short-period waves overtake the long-period waves. 
C)  the waves are sorted by velocity and form the swell. 
D)  the sea becomes flat outside the storm area. 
A)  the short waves move out first and form "chop." 
B)  the short-period waves overtake the long-period waves. 
C)  the waves are sorted by velocity and form the swell. 
D)  the sea becomes flat outside the storm area.

When waves approach the shore, a series of changes takes place. One change is that the:

The period of wind waves is usually expressed in:

In the open sea, tsunami:

The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without change in direction is the:

Swell is the result of wave separation or dispersion.

As the wind velocity increases during a storm:

Internal waves commonly form at the base of the pycnocline.

Describe how a tsunami is formed and how it can travel great distances at great speeds.

Wave reflection causes interference in the form of vertical oscillations that are called standing waves.

In shallow water, the motion of water particles:

In the open sea, tsunami reach an average wave height of about:

What is a storm surge and how does it differ from a breaking wind wave?

When a tsunami reaches shore,

Rogue waves are best described as:

The Ramapo wave is unique because:

The first waves to form on the ocean surface when the wind starts to blow are:

The best place to study the effects of a seiche is:

A wave first begins to break against the shore when the ratio of wave height to water depth is about 3:4.

What is the relationship between the wave crest, trough, height and wavelength?

As wind waves move out of a storm area:

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Exam 9: Waves

When waves approach the shore, a series of changes takes place. One change is that the:

The period of wind waves is usually expressed in:

In the open sea, tsunami:

The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without change in direction is the:

Swell is the result of wave separation or dispersion.

As the wind velocity increases during a storm:

Internal waves commonly form at the base of the pycnocline.

Describe how a tsunami is formed and how it can travel great distances at great speeds.

Wave reflection causes interference in the form of vertical oscillations that are called standing waves.

In shallow water, the motion of water particles:

In the open sea, tsunami reach an average wave height of about:

What is a storm surge and how does it differ from a breaking wind wave?

When a tsunami reaches shore,

Rogue waves are best described as:

The Ramapo wave is unique because:

The first waves to form on the ocean surface when the wind starts to blow are:

The best place to study the effects of a seiche is:

A wave first begins to break against the shore when the ratio of wave height to water depth is about 3:4.

What is the relationship between the wave crest, trough, height and wavelength?

As wind waves move out of a storm area:

The Origin of the Ocean

A History of Marine Science

Earth Structure and Plate Tectonics

Ocean Basins

Ocean Sediments

Water

Atmospheric Circulation

Ocean Circulation

Tides

Coasts

Life in the Ocean

Pelagic Communities

Benthic Communities

Uses and Abuses of the Ocean

Filters