Exam 12: Waves, Currents, and Coastlines

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Rip currents can be strong enough to pull people under the water.

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False

Relative sea level fluctuates constantly throughout the day.

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True

Swell is generated by storms far out at sea.

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If you were watching waves from the shore and started counting the seconds between one crest to the next,what would you be measuring?

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What type of shorelines typify passive margins?

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How can damming rivers upstream contribute to erosion problems at the shoreline?

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At what depth do waves begin to slow down and "feel bottom"?

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Long-term changes in the sediment budget of beaches can be caused by

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Divergence of wave normals usually occurs away from a headland.

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Why type of shorelines typify active margins?

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When the sediment budget of a beach is negative what will happen to the beach?

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If you went down to the shoreline and wanted to measure the wave period of incoming waves,what equipment would you need?

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On the west coast of Canada,sudden changes in the shoreline are likely caused by

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What is a rogue wave?

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The long-term effect of wave refraction is to straighten the shoreline (unless other non-wave processes intervene).

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What is longshore drift?

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Included in the definition of littoral drift is

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A barrier island is a landform produced by littoral drift.

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Where would you find a bluff?

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A linear structure placed perpendicular to the shore and designed to trap sand carried by longshore drift is called a

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