Question 1

As the wind velocity increases during a storm, ____.

Accepted Answer

A) the wave height increases 
B) the wave velocity decreases 
C) the wind tends to flatten the ocean surface 
D) wavelength decreases 
A) the wave height increases 
B) the wave velocity decreases 
C) the wind tends to flatten the ocean surface 
D) wavelength decreases A

Question 2

Which list is arranged in order from shortest wavelength to longest wavelength?

Accepted Answer

A) capillary waves, tsunami, wind waves, tides 
B) capillary waves, wind waves, tsunami, tides 
C) wind waves, tsunami, capillary waves, tides 
D) tides, capillary waves, tsunami, wind waves 
A) capillary waves, tsunami, wind waves, tides 
B) capillary waves, wind waves, tsunami, tides 
C) wind waves, tsunami, capillary waves, tides 
D) tides, capillary waves, tsunami, wind waves B

Question 3

What is fetch and how does it influence wind wave development?

Accepted Answer

A fetch occurs over an uninterrupted distance with which the wind blows without significant change in direction. Depending on the wind speed, wind duration, and fetch, the wave size could increase or decrease. For example, with increased wind speed, duration, and fetch, the wave size will increase. For the largest waves to fully develop, a large fetch must occur with wind blowing continuously for nearly three days. The greatest potential for large waves occurs beneath the strong and nearly continuous winds of the West Wind Drift surrounding Antarctica.

Question 4

Standing waves oscillate vertically, but do not move forward.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 5

What wave form typically carries the greatest amount of energy through the ocean surface at any given time?

Accepted Answer

A) wind waves 
B) seismic waves 
C) seiches 
D) capillary waves 
A) wind waves 
B) seismic waves 
C) seiches 
D) capillary waves

Question 6

When a tsunami reaches shore, ____.

Accepted Answer

A) the wave height greatly increases 
B) the wave period greatly decreases 
C) the wave will appear as a single huge breaking wave 
D) it will always race hundreds of meters inland 
A) the wave height greatly increases 
B) the wave period greatly decreases 
C) the wave will appear as a single huge breaking wave 
D) it will always race hundreds of meters inland

Question 7

Which statement is true concerning capillary waves?

Accepted Answer

A) Capillary waves can be important because they mix nutrients into surface waters. 
B) Capillary waves are the source of internal waves. 
C) Capillary waves form as friction stretches the water surface. 
D) Capillary waves have the longest wavelength of any wave type. 
A) Capillary waves can be important because they mix nutrients into surface waters. 
B) Capillary waves are the source of internal waves. 
C) Capillary waves form as friction stretches the water surface. 
D) Capillary waves have the longest wavelength of any wave type.

Question 8

A wave first begins to break against the shore when the ratio of wave height to water depth is about 1:2.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 9

Water particles in a deep-water wave ____.

Accepted Answer

A) move rapidly toward the shore 
B) move in circular orbits 
C) do not move; only the wave form moves 
D) move in flat elliptical circles 
A) move rapidly toward the shore 
B) move in circular orbits 
C) do not move; only the wave form moves 
D) move in flat elliptical circles

Question 10

As wind waves move out of a storm area, the ____.

Accepted Answer

A) short waves move out first and form "chop" 
B) short-period waves overtake the long-period waves 
C) waves are sorted by wavelength and speed, and form the swell 
D) sea becomes flat outside the storm area 
A) short waves move out first and form "chop" 
B) short-period waves overtake the long-period waves 
C) waves are sorted by wavelength and speed, and form the swell 
D) sea becomes flat outside the storm area

Question 11

Tsunami or seismic sea waves are often generated by ____.

Accepted Answer

A) storms at sea 
B) tidal currents in the open sea 
C) breaking internal waves 
D) coastal or submarine earthquakes 
A) storms at sea 
B) tidal currents in the open sea 
C) breaking internal waves 
D) coastal or submarine earthquakes

Question 12

The period of wind waves is usually expressed in ____.

Accepted Answer

A) feet or meters 
B) miles per hour, or kilometers per hour 
C) seconds 
D) feet or meters per hour 
A) feet or meters 
B) miles per hour, or kilometers per hour 
C) seconds 
D) feet or meters per hour

Question 13

A ____ is a gravity wave formed by the transfer of wind energy into the water.

Accepted Answer

A) swell 
B) tide 
C) wind wave 
D) tsunami 
A) swell 
B) tide 
C) wind wave 
D) tsunami

Question 14

A tsunami is a shallow water wave that moves at high speeds.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 15

Internal waves commonly form at the base of the pycnocline.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 16

In the open sea, tsunami waves ____.

Accepted Answer

A) have a much shorter wave height than they do when they reach the shore 
B) have a much larger wave height than they do when they reach the shore 
C) have a very short wave period 
D) frequently destroy ships that pass over them 
A) have a much shorter wave height than they do when they reach the shore 
B) have a much larger wave height than they do when they reach the shore 
C) have a very short wave period 
D) frequently destroy ships that pass over them

Question 17

A disturbing force for tides is ____.

Accepted Answer

A) faulting of the seafloor 
B) wind 
C) gravitational attraction 
D) storm surge 
A) faulting of the seafloor 
B) wind 
C) gravitational attraction 
D) storm surge

Question 18

Celerity is a measure of wavelength and the units are meters.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 19

Most characteristics of ocean waves depend on the relationship between their ____.

Accepted Answer

A) water depth and trough 
B) wave height and wavelength 
C) water depth and wave height 
D) wavelength and water depth 
A) water depth and trough 
B) wave height and wavelength 
C) water depth and wave height 
D) wavelength and water depth

Question 20

The first waves to form on the ocean surface when the wind starts to blow are ____.

Accepted Answer

A) gravity waves 
B) internal waves 
C) swell 
D) capillary waves 
A) gravity waves 
B) internal waves 
C) swell 
D) capillary waves

As the wind velocity increases during a storm, ____.

Which list is arranged in order from shortest wavelength to longest wavelength?

What is fetch and how does it influence wind wave development?

Standing waves oscillate vertically, but do not move forward.

What wave form typically carries the greatest amount of energy through the ocean surface at any given time?

When a tsunami reaches shore, ____.

Which statement is true concerning capillary waves?

A wave first begins to break against the shore when the ratio of wave height to water depth is about 1:2.

Water particles in a deep-water wave ____.

As wind waves move out of a storm area, the ____.

Tsunami or seismic sea waves are often generated by ____.

The period of wind waves is usually expressed in ____.

A ____ is a gravity wave formed by the transfer of wind energy into the water.

A tsunami is a shallow water wave that moves at high speeds.

Internal waves commonly form at the base of the pycnocline.

In the open sea, tsunami waves ____.

A disturbing force for tides is ____.

Celerity is a measure of wavelength and the units are meters.

Most characteristics of ocean waves depend on the relationship between their ____.

The first waves to form on the ocean surface when the wind starts to blow are ____.

The Origin of the Ocean

A History of Marine Science

Earth Structure and Plate Tectonics

Ocean Basins

Ocean Sediments

Water

Atmospheric Circulation

Ocean Circulation

Tides

Coasts

Life in the Ocean

Pelagic Communities

Benthic Communities

Uses and Abuses of the Ocean

Filters

Exam 9: Waves

As the wind velocity increases during a storm, ____.

Which list is arranged in order from shortest wavelength to longest wavelength?

What is fetch and how does it influence wind wave development?

Standing waves oscillate vertically, but do not move forward.

What wave form typically carries the greatest amount of energy through the ocean surface at any given time?

When a tsunami reaches shore, ____.

Which statement is true concerning capillary waves?

A wave first begins to break against the shore when the ratio of wave height to water depth is about 1:2.

Water particles in a deep-water wave ____.

As wind waves move out of a storm area, the ____.

Tsunami or seismic sea waves are often generated by ____.

The period of wind waves is usually expressed in ____.

A ____ is a gravity wave formed by the transfer of wind energy into the water.

A tsunami is a shallow water wave that moves at high speeds.

Internal waves commonly form at the base of the pycnocline.

In the open sea, tsunami waves ____.

A disturbing force for tides is ____.

Celerity is a measure of wavelength and the units are meters.

Most characteristics of ocean waves depend on the relationship between their ____.

The first waves to form on the ocean surface when the wind starts to blow are ____.

The Origin of the Ocean

A History of Marine Science

Earth Structure and Plate Tectonics

Ocean Basins

Ocean Sediments

Water

Atmospheric Circulation

Ocean Circulation

Tides

Coasts

Life in the Ocean

Pelagic Communities

Benthic Communities

Uses and Abuses of the Ocean

Filters