Exam 16: Oceans, Shorelines, and Shoreline Processes

Rip currents tend to develop over regions where the sea/lake floor is slightly deeper.

Briefly explain how the functions and locations of groins and jetties differ.

Scientists today calculate the depth to the seafloor using

Salinity of seawater is a measure of

How do marine terraces form?

A deposit of unconsolidated sediment that extends landward from low tide to a change in topography or to where permanent vegetation begins is a(n)____.

In what direction do longshore currents flow?

The velocity of a wave is calculated as the ____________________ multiplied by the ____________________.

Shoreline erosion is common in many parts of the world,in part because sea level is ____________________.

Energy is transferred from wind to water to create waves by ____________________.

Sediment is lost from the nearshore zone by ____.

The distance wave-producing winds blow over a continuous body of water is the ____.

The ____________________ of a wave is the time necessary for two successive ____________________ or ____________________ to pass.

The most effective means of sea cliff erosion is hydraulic action.

The zone that extends to just beyond where the waves break is called the ____________________ zone.

Barrier islands migrate landward.

What are two ways (one natural and one human-induced)in which the sediment budget of a coastline can become negative?

What are the most important reasons for changes in beach profiles?

Water in waves is displaced from the circular orbits when ____.

What are narrow surface currents that flow in the same general direction as the approaching waves?